Food walk · Scotland

Edinburgh food walk: Old Town to Leith

Edinburgh smells of hops from the breweries, rain on sandstone and, in the right street, chips with brown sauce. Its food scene runs from smoked salmon and oatcakes to modern Scottish tasting menus, with a whisky bar on what feels like every corner.

The curving, colourful shopfronts of Victoria Street in Edinburgh's Old Town
Victoria Street, Edinburgh · rboed* · CC BY 2.0

The walk

Start in the Old Town. Wander down Victoria Street, with its curving, colourful shopfronts, into the Grassmarket. Look for cheesemongers and whisky shops, where staff are usually happy to talk you through a region before you visit it.

Cross to the New Town and Stockbridge. Stockbridge has a village feel, with independent bakeries, delis and a Sunday market. Check its current days before you go.

Follow the Water of Leith walkway down to Leith, the old port. It is a pleasant riverside path of about 5–6 km. Or take the tram if your legs prefer. Leith's Shore is lined with seafood restaurants and bars, and there are several newer distilleries and whisky bars nearby.

What to taste

  • Smoked salmon and other Scottish seafood: langoustines, mussels, oysters.
  • Haggis, neeps and tatties. Vegetarian haggis is widely available.
  • Scottish cheeses and oatcakes.
  • Cranachan: raspberries, cream, honey, whisky and toasted oats.
  • A flight of whiskies from different regions. It is the perfect way to decide where to travel next.

Whisky from Edinburgh

Lowland distilleries in East Lothian are about 30–40 minutes away (see Lowland whisky). Pitlochry and the Perthshire distilleries are about 1½ hours north by road or rail. Speyside is 3–3½ hours away. Our seven-day whisky route starts here.

Let someone else do the driving

Distillery roads are narrow, the drams are generous and Scotland's drink-drive limit is lower than in the rest of the UK. A private driver-guide plans the route around your bookings, waits while you taste and gets you home.

English enquiries go to Scottish Highland Travel, Chinese-language enquiries to HighlandTrip. Both are private chauffeur services run by the same group as this guide.

Quick answers

Is Edinburgh a good base for whisky tasting?
Yes, for bars and city distilleries, and for day trips to the Lowlands. For Speyside or Islay, plan overnight stays.
Do I need to book whisky tastings in Edinburgh?
Book distillery tours and ticketed experiences. Most whisky bars are walk-in.

Official sources to check before booking